HP Forum Archive 19

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Repair of HP 11C Message #1 Posted by Don Steele on 13 Mar 2010, 7:13 p.m. New Poster - I have an older 11C and the faceplate came off. I tried to re-attach with rubber cement which was a horrible plan. I have taken it completely apart and cleaned it up. I have read prior forum articles about using using hobby tire cement to hold down the keyboard pcb and using a soldering iron to remelt stake tops to attach the pcb. Other articles talk about using tire cement or gorilla glue for the faceplate. Opinions about what is best? The foam connector between the keyboard pcb and the display/cpu came off. This has a black side and a red side. Which side goes next to the keyboard pcb? I think it is the black side. Where can I get another spring? There was only one spring when I opened this up. I appreciate your help. - Don

Re: Repair of HP 11C Message #2 Posted by Michael Plant on 14 Mar 2010, 1:45 a.m., in response to message #1 by Don Steele Gorilla glue expands, so be careful with that. I'd just use double sided tape, personally. However, I've never attempted this on a Voyager (I've never had the face plate off one), so I'm keen to hear other opinions.

Re: Repair of HP 11C Message #3 Posted by geoff quickfall on 14 Mar 2010, 12:42 p.m., in response to message #2 by Michael Plant Check this posting and scroll down through the replies: hp 10c and 15C bezels Geoff I used a thin coating of contact cement applied to both pieces, the bezel and the case. Edited: 14 Mar 2010, 12:44 p.m.

Re: Repair of HP 11C Message #4 Posted by Dave Shaffer (Arizona) on 14 Mar 2010, 1:43 p.m., in response to message #3 by geoff quickfall Quote: I used a thin coating of contact cement applied to both pieces, the bezel and the case. A minor warning: contact cement gives you NO second chance at alignment - once the two pieces touch, you can not slide them around.

Re: Repair of HP 11C Message #5 Posted by Geoff Quickfall on 14 Mar 2010, 2:33 p.m., in response to message #4 by Dave Shaffer (Arizona) Dave is correct. To minimize the need to realign I start with small points of application on the bezel with corresponding points on the case. There is no need to coat the entire bezel and case at all contact points. Then, with the bezel at a 45' angle to the case (longitudinally) place the bezel on the case starting at one end. Line it up at this point then lower the opposite end confirming the line up, until the bezel is in place. If after this it is out of alignment, a reaplication of heat on the bezel as described (and as the glue is new) will allow you to remove the bezel and reapply it -or- to remove the bezel, pick off the glue from the case and bezel and reapply it. Cheers, Geoff I have used this method for applying Classic labels, Voyager bezels, Pioneer keyboard overlays and have never had to remove them yet (perhaps just lucky) In any case (pun intended) let us see the results.

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