Here we go.... (48G fixing and MEMORY UPGRADE)

[lemontea]

Now, here is yet another hurdle, which I shall attempt to describe in detail.

The NEW LCD (yay! Black LCD!) was put carefully back into the frame for the 2nd 48G, the one with busted LCD and the dented metal overlay (which I smoothed out).

I had smoothed out and replace the overlay, using some contact cement. Still, hardly "pristine" looking, but I just wanted it functional. It would be darn near impossible to bring it back to a factory condition without some good equipment. I almost figured I would just print out a new overlay with my inkjet printer, but then I would have to cut out all the little holes, and I would not even know if it would be worth all that effort if the thing didn't work.

So, I glued back the overlay, and then carefully put in the new LCD.

Here, it is super tricky.

If you have read Han's repair web page, you will know that he cautions about replacing the LCD, to ensure the foam connectors are all lined up properly, and to avoid any dust on the connectors.

I don't know how he does it, but it seems close to impossible to do.

The reason is, I don't know when the foam connectors are lined up. There is wiggle room on the metal chassis, so you can veer left or right a bit, and if the offset is too much (look at the spacing of the PCB's LCD connectors) it seems you will be totally misaligned.

So, I just tried it a FEW TIMES (so much effort!), moving the LCD ever so slightly left or right if it didn't work. (Note that we are still using the 2nd 48G's original PCB).

Meanwhile, when you push the metal tabs through the PCB, it is IMPOSSIBLE not to generate PCB dust.

(I thought about spreading some coating on the PCB holes to prevent the dust, but the holes are too small and there is no tolerance around it because the PCB copper traces are too tight and close.)

This PCB dust EASILY gets onto the LCD foam connectors, even if you hold up the PCB over your head as Han recommends (here again, I think we should be wearing dust masks and eye protection, especially if you are going to hold the assembly overhead).

Then you need to carefully twist the metal tabs again to secure everything.

AND STILL IT DOES NOT WORK.

I tried several times. Quite tiring work!

LCD comes on but incorrectly. You can see various attempts in my photos here.

(OOPS it says I have reached my attachment quota of 6 MB... hopefully someone can help me fix this, so that I can continue posting. I will stop now until this is fixed. Back later today or tomorrow).