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newRPL on HP 39gs
05-14-2018, 01:42 PM (This post was last modified: 05-15-2018 03:40 AM by RMollov.)
Post: #21
RE: newRPL on HP 39gs
Bad news. I did try to swap keys of the hp49g+ and HP39gs with no success. Pulled off their screen protectors. HP49g+ had no screws underneath and I moved to the HP39. Pulled it apart within a minute and found dozens of little screws I thought were holding the board to the base. Took them out, but the board was still solidly stuck to the bottom. Looks like those screws were driven into hollow white plastic heatstakes. At this point I gave up. Put it all back together, leaving one of the buzzer's leads unsoldered (it came off when I split the shelves.), so now HP39 is quiet.
I love RPL and would like to give newRPL a go. Now I'm thinking about making stickers for key legends.

I took some pictures, if anyone is interested, I'll post them here.

Cheers,

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05-14-2018, 02:41 PM (This post was last modified: 05-14-2018 02:42 PM by Vtile.)
Post: #22
RE: newRPL on HP 39gs
(05-14-2018 01:42 PM)RMollov Wrote:  Bad news. I did try to swap keys of the hp49g+ and HP39gs with no success. Pulled off their screen protectors. HP49g+ had no screws underneath and I moved to the HP39. Pulled it apart within a minute and found dozens of little screws I thought were holding the board to the base. Took them out, but the board was still solidly stuck to the bottom. Looks like those screws were driven into hollow white plastic heatstakes. At this point I gave up. Put it all back together, leaving one of the buzzer's leads unsoldered (it came off when I split the shelves.), so now HP39 is quiet.
I love RPL and would like to give newRPL a go. Now I'm thinking about making stickers for key legends.

I took some pictures, if anyone is interested, I'll post them here.

Cheers,
Yes please.. I also didn't even try to get the keyboard out with my 50g when I had it opened. The buzzer is easy to solder back if you have a soldering iron. The element itself is glued to the back cover so it is easier to just desolder the wires when you need to get a good access to the PCBs than try to pry the element out of its attachment.

The screen faceplate should come off also with some thing sheetmetal or screwdriver when you carefully pry it from the side of the HP-logo, this works at least with once removed faceplate. One must be carefull though to not to make a visible dents to the corners, so the suction cup method is better in this viewpoint.
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05-14-2018, 05:09 PM (This post was last modified: 05-14-2018 07:18 PM by Thomas Radtke.)
Post: #23
RE: newRPL on HP 39gs
(05-14-2018 01:42 PM)RMollov Wrote:  Now I'm thinking about making stickers for key legends.
Wouldn't it be easier to remap the keys?

Edit: I just now looked at the 39gs keyboard. Well...
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05-15-2018, 01:51 AM
Post: #24
RE: newRPL on HP 39gs
(05-14-2018 01:42 PM)RMollov Wrote:  Bad news. I did try to swap keys of the hp49g+ and HP39gs with no success. Pulled off their screen protectors. HP49g+ had no screws underneath and I moved to the HP39. Pulled it apart within a minute and found dozens of little screws I thought were holding the board to the base. Took them out, but the board was still solidly stuck to the bottom. Looks like those screws were driven into hollow white plastic heatstakes. At this point I gave up. Put it all back together, leaving one of the buzzer's leads unsoldered (it came off when I split the shelves.), so now HP39 is quiet.
I love RPL and would like to give newRPL a go. Now I'm thinking about making stickers for key legends.

I took some pictures, if anyone is interested, I'll post them here.

Cheers,

Post your pictures!!

Take a look at this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKt-BIbti0k

The board is attached to the front plate with plastic rivets you need to remove (this is likely the same for the 39, the screws alone are not holding the board). This was a long time ago, but I didn't use a drill bit like in the video, I just took a screw and drove it in the rivet, then I removed it. It weakened the rivets enough that with twizzers I was able to bend them in and the board came out. Then I put the screws back into the rivets to secure the board when I was done.
Also, I did not desolder the buzzer from the motherboard. I used a spatula between the buzzer and the plastic, and it came off. When I put it back it wasn't making good contact and didn't sound as loud, but still worked.

I don't think the 39 would be so different from the other calcs to secure the board. It probably has the same rivets in the same position (same motherboard after all).
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