Hi everyone
We would like to share the methods we are trying for re closing a Woodstock keyboard
Basically we have tried three different methods
A. Micro screw, we were expecting more from this, beside that fact that is quite difficult to get a 1 mm diameter screw,
it turned out that plastic of which the posts are made of tents to break while tightening the screws
B. Glue, so far the best result is with the pictured glue, it takes some caution not to put too much and the layers have to be tightened together using paper clips and material so that the facelift is protected
C. Rivets, we ordered some copper rivets, outer diameter a little less than 2 mm, inner diameter 1,2 mm
It would have been better an inner diameter of 1.3 o 1.4 but looks like is non standard measure
Using the tip of a solder we have been able to push the rivet which molds with the post
Looks like is a no return procedure because when we tried to remove the river il also the post came with it but is quite strong
We will do more tests and publish the result
Pictures here :
Woodstock Keyboard
Take care and as always any suggestion is highly appreciated!!!
Dear Alberto,
may I kindly ask you to upload a picture from the inner side of the keyboard board?
The white board, but the hidden side, where keys make the contact. I have an HP27 with a problem in this side. Probably, one of the tracks is broken and the full bottom line of the keys do not work.
Thanks in advance.
Kind regards
Ignacio
Alberto, I sincerely want to thank you for this very helpful information. The short video with using the soldering iron to attach copper rivets was really revealing.
It has given me ideas for similar repairs to a couple of Pioneers, particularly an HP-10B that I thoroughly disassembled and haven't yet re-assembled.
Alan
Very interesting - thanks for documenting this!
When you tried the screws did you tap the posts first? (That procedure worked well for HP-15CLE keyboard.)
(10-14-2019 05:27 PM)albertofenini Wrote: [ -> ]Using the tip of a solder we have been able to push the rivet which molds with the post
Looks like is a no return procedure because when we tried to remove the river il also the post came with it but is quite strong
Very, very clever, I will use it for my 12Cs - thanks.
Just an idea: Use the rivets without head with prefabricated inner thread, you push in with the solder and when cooled down, the motherboard can be fixed with a bolt turned into the inner thread and use a plastic plain washer between the board and the head of the bolt?!?
Csaba
Sorry Guys
I was on a business trip out to Barcelona and I have just returned,
I think in the weekend will do some more tests on a real Woodstock keyboard,
I mean one that we need then to use after the repair
I strongly believe that best results can be achieved with a mix of rivets (not many)
and glue since the rivets are a one way only solution, (removing will brake the posts...)
Will also post the requested pictures
Take care !!
(10-18-2019 04:51 PM)albertofenini Wrote: [ -> ]Sorry Guys
I was on a business trip out to Barcelona and I have just returned,
I hope everything was ok. It is a pity what is happening these days...
ciao Ignacio,
we have updated the Album with more pictures, just click on the original link
Woodstock Keyboard
There are two types of keyboard,
one is like the Classic with metallic domes, just a bit more little,
the other type which we tried to restore has a plastic shield with some copper stripes
that will make the contact when pressed.
We have posted photo for both types, inside and outside, just let us know if is this you meant
take care !!
(10-15-2019 09:21 AM)isanchez Wrote: [ -> ]Dear Alberto,
may I kindly ask you to upload a picture from the inner side of the keyboard board?
The white board, but the hidden side, where keys make the contact. I have an HP27 with a problem in this side. Probably, one of the tracks is broken and the full bottom line of the keys do not work.
Thanks in advance.
Kind regards
Ignacio
Yes everything all right, but it breaks my heart to see what's happening ...
(10-18-2019 05:03 PM)Moggul Wrote: [ -> ] (10-18-2019 04:51 PM)albertofenini Wrote: [ -> ]Sorry Guys
I was on a business trip out to Barcelona and I have just returned,
I hope everything was ok. It is a pity what is happening these days...
It's definetely a good idea but we were not able to find such parts ...
(10-16-2019 07:31 AM)Csaba Tizedes Wrote: [ -> ] (10-14-2019 05:27 PM)albertofenini Wrote: [ -> ]Using the tip of a solder we have been able to push the rivet which molds with the post
Looks like is a no return procedure because when we tried to remove the river il also the post came with it but is quite strong
Very, very clever, I will use it for my 12Cs - thanks.
Just an idea: Use the rivets without head with prefabricated inner thread, you push in with the solder and when cooled down, the motherboard can be fixed with a bolt turned into the inner thread and use a plastic plain washer between the board and the head of the bolt?!?
Csaba
We kind of tried, but those posts are really too thin to just work on them,
which is why we went for the rivet idea, still I would like to find rivets with 1,3 mm inner diameter
as I think at this point no solder would be needed and it would be as tight but more removable ...
take care !
(10-15-2019 09:44 PM)BobVA Wrote: [ -> ]Very interesting - thanks for documenting this!
When you tried the screws did you tap the posts first? (That procedure worked well for HP-15CLE keyboard.)