HP Forum Archive 16

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Re-attaching a Voyager logo Message #1 Posted by Ken Shaw on 31 Jan 2007, 3:28 p.m. Any advice on how to re-attach the logo to my HP-12C without damaging anything? Crazy glue? It's supposedly 1985 vintage but I'm not the original owner so it could contain replacement parts. The logo is very shiny but I can't tell if it's metal or plastic, and it was attached with a dab of a hard white substance. Also, if it's of any interest, you can see that several of the keys are originally 15C keys that have been repainted, mostly the financial register keys on those immediately below them. Regards,

Re: Re-attaching a Voyager logo Message #2 Posted by Randy on 31 Jan 2007, 5:03 p.m., in response to message #1 by Ken Shaw Keep regular super glues away from your calculator, most leave a white haze after curing. There are two types of logos, a hollowed out metal one, the later units were molded plastic. IMO the best method to reattach is same stuff used originally - silicone caulk a.k.a. RTV. Use clear instead of white.

Re: Re-attaching a Voyager logo Message #3 Posted by Les Wright on 31 Jan 2007, 5:54 p.m., in response to message #2 by Randy Randy, is it appropriate to use the same stuff to reattached a removed bezel? The dust under the display window of my working grade 11C was driving me absolutely bonkers (it was compromising the crispness of the display), so I got a thin bit of flexible plastic (actually, a collar stay from one of my better shirts) and very gentle worked the metal bit off. I was able to do the cleaning job--not perfectly, since I have a bunch of cats and lint, dust, and dander are everywhere--but it is a lot better than it was. I didn't manage to keep the bezel bezel perfectly flat, and there is some discernable "lumpiness" in the metal surface when viewed from an angle, but I can accept this over the dusty mess that was obscuring the display. (Remember, this is a marked up working grade calculator--I wouldn't try any of this on my own with my pristine 15C.) The original glue was obviously weakened so I reattached it with a good dollop of Elmer's rubber cement on each end, only because I know the stuff is actually fairly benign. But this is hardly an enduring solution and I would be curious to know what it more appropriate. Les

Re: Re-attaching a Voyager logo Message #4 Posted by Randy on 31 Jan 2007, 7:04 p.m., in response to message #3 by Les Wright I normally use "Household Goop". It is a rubbery contact cement that will not damage plastic, holds well and can be pilled/rubbed off should it ooze out the edges. Rubber cement is a close second. For future reference, you can remove display dust without removing the bezel. Remove the case back and apply puffs of canned air in and around the LCD area. Don't shake or invert the can, you'll get liquid instead of gas which is a bad thing - it's super cold and can have unwanted consequences.

Re: Re-attaching a Voyager logo Message #5 Posted by Ken Shaw on 1 Feb 2007, 12:15 a.m., in response to message #2 by Randy Thanks, I'll give that a shot. The logo is hollow, so I assume that means it's a metal one (it's surprisingly difficult to tell).

Re: Re-attaching a Voyager logo Message #6 Posted by Ron on 1 Feb 2007, 12:41 a.m., in response to message #2 by Randy The original adhesive was silicone?! I've always wondered, but didn't want to peal off a badge to see. Thanks. That's good to know.

Re: Re-attaching a Voyager logo Message #7 Posted by Randy on 1 Feb 2007, 8:07 a.m., in response to message #6 by Ron A thick, double sided adhesive film was used for the metal ones but RTV works fine as finding the correct thickness material would be difficult.

Re: Re-attaching a Voyager logo Message #8 Posted by Ken Shaw on 2 Feb 2007, 10:44 a.m., in response to message #7 by Randy Currently the inside of the logo has a hardened white substance with an irregular shape, so it appears to have been a viscous substance at the time it was applied, and possibly squeezed flat by pressing the logo on. I'll try to post a picture in the next few days, because I'm curious to know if it's original or after-market.

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